Saturday, March 7, 2009

Man Travel: How To Shop like a local in Milan

Milan isn't Paris. At times it doesn't even feel like Italy. There's a sense of the Germanic to it, as a walk around the sprawling Parco Sempione on a Sunday afternoon will attest. Men in forest-green loden coats and Bavarian-style hats with feathers. Serious women in big fur coats. Unsmiling children.

Man Fashion
Warm up your shopping muscles with a visit to the Quadrilatero, the golden rectangle, just north of the Duomo, as the four big-bucks shopping streets (Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga, Via Manzoni and Via Sant'Andrea) are collectively called. Status designers from Armani to Zegna, from brothers Rossetti to sisters Fendi, have their flagship stores here; they are scattered between small galleries, antique dealers and fancy cafés with chandeliers, where matrons in mink (it's politically incorrect not to wear fur here) down a quick espresso standing at the counter, before reporting for retail battle.

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Friday, March 6, 2009

Equality Is Less Than Egalité: Texas Lobby Days Wrap


"We're this close to getting this [James Byrd Hate Crimes Bill] passed. We don't want to lose this opportunity. Just let us get this one over the hump. We'll come back for you in the next session." — Texas State Sen. Rodney Ellis (D-Houston), as told to TGAIN Lobbyists in March, 2001.

March 2, 2009 was Equality Texas' LGBT Lobby Days. Arguably this was the most well-attended in state history with estimates of nearly 500 lobbyists taking to Austin's Capitol Hill. By most accounts this was a successful effort.

A couple things did seem to fall between the gaps though, and I must say I'm still not fully comfortable with what we've got. To be sure, all of the new bills being submitted are sexual orientation and gender identity -- there's nothing wrong with those currently. Hopefully the bills will remain intact, though we're not the ones at the negotiating table and anything can happen, so no resting on laurels.

The packets they put out were very good, to the point on the legislative 'asks' and informative. There was no supportive material to prove basis of need or provide educational backing, and perhaps they feel it's not needed. On trans issues, I'm not quite sure that's the case with the newbies -- but again, that's debatable. Perhaps there's a chance they've already done the measure of background education on who we are, at the very least on trans issues.

But a couple of items weren't in the packet, because they weren't apparently pushed to the legislators and filed on the same time frame as the others. This would be Equality Texas doing the primary push, of course. And the two bills -- the name & gender marker change bill, and the expansion of the Hate Crimes Bill to include gender identity categories -- are admittedly trans only.

After getting back from Washington in mid February, one of the first things I did was check to see what was submitted for us, and I noted immediately a category expansion for Homeless -- but nothing for trans folks.

"I ain't no tiger.
I ain't no little lamb.
Suppose you tell me, mama,
Who do you think I think I am?
And oh baby, don't you give a damn?" — I Will Not Go Quietly, Don Henley


In 2001, Texas' James Byrd Hate Crimes Bill was passed and signed into law, including most everyone ... except transgenders. As head of TGAIN, I was very involved in both 2001 and the initial 1999 bill. My 1999 visit taking newbie lobbyists, Mark Wood and Patrick McIlvain of Houston on their very first lobby visit with hardcore State Rep. Warren Chisum (R-Pampa) won his agreement to support the bill with his wording that made it sound as if it were our choice (culpability) -- sexual preference and gender non-conformity.

Once we got his word, we left quickly before he changed his mind! As long as we were covered by definition, I was overjoyed to have his support regardless of what he wanted to call us. Chisum signed on as sponsor of both editions of the bill -- he lived up to his word.

His sponsorship also brought along a handful of other traditional Republicans as well. It proved key in 2001.

However, when the bill was imminently ready to pass, it was the Senate author who was immovable. Sen. Rodney Ellis was hungry for scoring the goal, and Lesbian Gay Rights Lobby's (LGRL) Dianne Hardy-Garcia was more than willing to facilitate it by using transgenders as the sacrificial lamb in order to get the bill passed. After speaking with Sen. Ellis, and in the interest of "process and political considerations", I decided to allow them their victory, refrained from raining on their parade, and waited.


Over the years and the numerous revisions of the 'excuse,' I now realize that wait was in vain. Hardy-Garcia dodged her responsibility as well, escaping to more attractive environs running the Human Rights Campaign's (HRC) Millennium March. I will admit: I was played for a stupid fool. Once burned ....

Years have since passed. LGRL later hired Randall Ellis, who made every effort to repair the fractured community damage -- someone I actually had faith in and could trust. But then came 2005, and a sudden change to rename the organization as part of the "Equality Federation," a new leadership that was key on finding new leaders in the trans community to deal with (circumventing TGAIN) and keeping us in the dark. Shortly after, there was a board vote in the middle of the night to rid itself of Randall Ellis. New era, new approach, and for we original trans leaders, new concerns.


Definition of Equality: The condition, quality or state of being equal.
Definition of Egalite: Social or political equality, the condition of having equal rank, power, etc., with others


With the past two lobby efforts, I've been financially out of commission. When you self-fund your organization's efforts and you're unemployed -- esp. as a trans organization, then things are mandatorily dormant. No one should go homeless "for the cause."

So with this being my first exposure to Texas' version of Equality, I was curious. Equality in general is a very mixed bag regarding the "T" in GLBT: some really good, some okay, and others outright horrible. During the speeches, there were PowerPoint scrolls on the overhead projector that flashed the Equality Texas Logo with other organizations (presumed donors or supporters?) including groups like Log Cabin Republicans and the "Big Equal Sign" -- yep, HRC. *Sigh* Texas' version appears, at least prima facie, to be somewhere between 'okay' and 'good.'

However, not having the two trans bills, especially one which was left off of a GLBT bill like hate crimes seemed rather ... odd. In fact, it felt as if no one -- not even the trans group they were working with locally in Austin -- seemed concerned with bringing up the addition. Nothing had been submitted even by the time I made it to town, though there was one in the works in the House, albeit not fully written up as yet. It seemed like a glaring oversight.

Then while in Austin, one of my friends in the House (I'll withhold the name of the Rep) contacted me by Email:

Vanessa, I'm with you on the issue and regret very much that the transgendered community was left out of the original Hate Crimes bill. Doing so was wrong because every person should be protected from being singled out for who they are and should be protected from targeted violence. However, I want to express my concern that opening up the Hate Crimes statute would provide Republicans the opportunity to remove the sexual orientation language. I'm sure you know how difficult it was to keep that language in the bill. Hate Crimes legislation could've been passed many years before it was finally passed because the supporters of the bill hung on to the idea that sexual orientation should be included. It would not surprise me at all if Republicans actually moved the bill through the legislative process to use it as a vehicle to remove the words "sexual orientation" from the statute.
There were pieces of that logic missing though. Hate Crimes was already expanding language for Homeless and there were numerous new bills being submitted with both sexual orientation and gender identity -- including one for School Anti-Bullying, which also deals with bias-related taunts and violence with penalties for violations. It was also out of character for my friend to come up with the sudden reluctance -- something was afoot.

At lunch I buttonholed the Equality Texas Political Director, Randall Terrell, explaining to him my desire to move the hate crimes expansion forward, as well as my planned pulling of Rep. Warren Chisum (and another Republican) from the floor to discuss following through with the 1999 agreement remnants.

That's when I was stopped. He instructed me not to pull Chisum and talk to him as he had a visit with Chisum and needed his sponsorship on another bill -- a study to report on why existing Hate Crimes charges aren't being filed by district attorneys' offices. My request to get Chisum for expanding the language would have to wait.

There's a distinct sense of heel-dragging going on here. I allowed Randall to have his meeting, to push forward Equality's desired bill. But so far all I'm seeing is stonewalling on my request. Once burned ... twice learned.
Even the local trans folks working with Equality seem rather blase about it all. This isn't a positive sign. I'm presuming they will continue keeping me in the dark and the folks wanting this quashed will work to counter me. And I will not remain silent this go-round. If there's anything I've learned over the years of using patience and decorum in allowing the "process" to play out is that it pays off with a big fat zero! When there's not anything there to have ever gained, why bother pulling punches?

This bill will begin moving forward even if I have to begin embarrassing people publicly to do so. I won't wait around, busting ass, spending money and wasting time for a satchel full of nothing but empty lies.

Silence equals death, and I damn sure don't feel like dying! This time it's quite personal.

"Turn this thing around!
I will not go quietly!
I will not lie down!" — I Will Not Go Quietly, Don Henley

Man Fashion: Adidas Y3 Sneakers

Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas are back at it with one of my favorite collaborative collections of the year! Once again, Yamamoto has added his own inventive touch to a fully comprehensive collection of sport and style-fused sneakers alike, as we see a great mix of textures, fabrics, heights and potential uses. As always, the Adidas Y-3 collection can be found in select higher-end menswear accounts and they can often teeter well over the $200 pricing tier. Adidas Y3 men sneaker shoes Adidas Y3 men sneaker shoe Adidas Y3 mens sneaker shoe Adidas Y3 men sneaker shoes Adidas Y3 men sneaker tennis shoe Adidas Y3 men shoes Adidas Y-3 mens shoe Men Sneakers Shoes Men Fashion Shoe mens shoes


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Foreboding Dreams And Depression

"Is it cloak and dagger, could it be Spring or Fall?
I Walk without a cut through a stained-glass wall.
Weaker in my eyesight, a candle in my grip,
And words that have no form are falling from my lips." — Dreams, Heart



I woke up today uncontrollably crying
And I don't know why
And I don't know ....

I lived for the world and it didn't live for me
And I don't know why
And I don't know ....

The things I had dreampt I couldn't see in my mind
Couldn't see in my mind
Couldn't see it ....

I'm not sure how, but I let the dream die
And I let it die
And I let it.

The dreams that I had was for others to be
It wasn't for me
No it wasn't ....

So how many times can you cry in your sleep?

....

I can't remember the dream but I let the dream die
Let the dream die
And I let it ....

And I don't know how, how I got down this far
How I got down so far
How I got down ....

* * * * * * *
The above was lyrics to a song I spontaneously wrote in my head on Tuesday morning when (as the song indicates) I woke up uncontrollably crying. Typically I'm not one given to tears when I'm awake. In fact, I don't really like emotions much as they're unwieldy – that and my upbringing from my macho dad who instructed me never to cry and to "be a man." The "man" part didn't work, but the emotion controls did for the most part. As a result I do occasionally cry in my sleep.

However this time was different: I could not remember what it was I'd dreampt that was that depressing! Usually I have at least a vague recollection of the last piece of the dream when that happens. This time, nothing but a blank ... plus the sobs ... and me trying to remember, but getting nothing but the song lyrics coming out of me. It was totally bizarre. It also left me depressed for the remainder of this week.

Is it green? Is it red?
Is it alive or is it dead?
I can't put my finger on it." — I Can't Put My Finger On It, Ween


There's probably an explanation in this, though it's latent at the moment. Maybe that's a self-defense mechanism? Even more bizarre, I was talking with another activist friend, Ethan St. Pierre, last night and he related he had the same type of dream not a week earlier: waking up crying from a dream he couldn't remember, feeling like he'd had his "heart ripped out."

I don't know what this means, but it intensifies this sense of foreboding I've had for a while. The thing is, I can't tell if it's foreboding over the global economic drainpipe we're swirling down, the indignation of being a trans activist and dealing with apathetic or antipathic gay and lesbian political leadership over just the most basic of our rights or the frustration at the self-serving deception encouraged by the current political environment and how we're oftentimes some of our own main detractors.

My lobbying trip to Austin was sorta fun, and mostly positive in the lobbying end of it. There were frustrations with the GLBT organization running it: Equality Texas, which I'll write about in another post. Something I agreed to hold off on smacked me as another of the empty promises I'd been fooled with eight years ago when the Hate Crimes bill in Texas passed without trans. Maybe my gut sense is telling me something on that.

One thing I've certainly sensed is that something's about to happen, and it is not going to be something we'll celebrate. I only wish I knew specifically what.

"These dreams that sleep when it's cold outside ...
Every moment I'm awake,
The further I'm away." — Dreams, Heart

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Man Fashion Tips: Mix it up a bit

Want to pop a paisley-patterned collar after the CIAA?

Maurizio Wade, the owner of Verse 9 Classic Menswear, teaches clients how to achieve the over-the-top suit style often seen at the Central Intercollegiate Athletic Association basketball tournament.

mens fashion
“I tell them, first things first. Take all of your ties and put them in a bag and give them away to your little cousin or brother, because we’re going to upgrade you,” he said.

He offers a few tips on how to step outside the fashion box:

When you think of a black suit, assume that it goes with everything. But don’t forget that the same goes for other colors such as blue and brown. Don’t just stick to one shade.

Don’t stick with the obvious color pairings in shirts and suits. White and black match, but try a pink shirt with a chocolate suit instead.

Don’t be afraid of different patterns. If two patterns have the same color palette, try pairing them. If a tie and shirt of different patterns seem too difficult to pull off, look for collared shirts that have one pattern outside and another in the lining.

By Jessica De Vault

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Mens Clothing Store Close after Near 100 Years

The recent economy downturn really hit everyone badly, and I really mean that.
Even for mens clothing store that has been established nearly 100 years, also can't escape from it.

For three generations, it was a landmark in downtown Henderson.

It clothed farmers and businessmen. Boy Scouts got their uniforms and accessories there. Many youngsters got their first pair of Levi's there. For a while, it was Henderson's connection to British mod fashion.

Now, Bernstein's Men's Wear is a memory -- but a powerful one.

mens clothing store
Its three patriarchs -- Ben, Sol and Jerry Bernstein -- were not only successful businessmen but vitally connected to the civic life of Henderson for nearly 100 years.

Source: www.courierpress.com

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Man Dress Shoes: Back to Basics

If you are a businessman or someone who has to wear dress shoes in your place of employment it is necessary to have at least a couple of pairs of quality footwear. Like women, men are more and more concern about their choice of dress shoes and tend to find the right pair of shoes. So before you decide your pair of shoes, let go back to basic.

I think the great bulk of dress, or "business" shoes fit snugly into two broad categories.

Oxfords

Oxfords are any lace-up men's dress shoes that don't rise above the ankle. Of course, within the Oxford category, there are many varieties, both structural and stylistic.


Open-laced (Bluchers) oxfords have the sides of the shoe sewn on top of the front part. When laced, the shoe looks like it's built out in segments. Front, top, side, back, etc.


Close-laced (Balmorals) oxfords are drawn together by laces sewn under the front part of the shoe and then closed over its tongue. The result is a shoe that looks as if it's made from one piece of leather.

Some oxfords have a separate piece of leather on the shoe's toe (also known as a "cap toe"). This leather may be plain or decorated with brogueing (leather embroidery).

"Saddle" oxfords have a saddle-shaped piece of leather of a different color, or leather type, over the shoe's instep.

"Kilties" are oxfords with a tongue of fringed leather that is draped over the instep to cover the shoe's laces and eyelets.

The "wingtip" is arguably the most common of all oxfords. This footwear features toe brogueing that resembles a bird with its wings spread.

When it comes to your oxfords, never settle for anything less than genuine leather. And no matter the structural design or the style of the leather finish, when worn in black, all oxford styles match with business suits.

Black, leather, close-laced oxfords, however, are the more formal dress shoe. They work especially well with pinstriped suits and double-breasted suits. If brown, they can be worn with tweed suits and sport jackets.

When worn in brown or oxblood, open-laced oxfords match with everything from jeans and khakis, to light suits and sports coats.

Loafers (Slip-On)

All loafers are marked by a low-cut, a broad, moccasin-type top, and a wide, flat heel.

As with oxfords, there are several varieties of loafer: penny loafer, moccasin, monk strap (buckle), tassel, etc.

Unlike oxfords, however, loafers don't automatically look good on all men.
Younger men might want to approach brown monk straps with caution, as those are more common among middle-aged guys. That said, a black monk strap looks quite good on the dance floor.

The classic Gucci or Prada moccasin-style loafer has been worn by business professionals for a while now, but it also looks good with jeans for a night out clubbing. Many young fashion mavens consider these dress shoes a basic necessity.

Penny loafers are casual, and perfect for khaki-and-blazer outfits. Although originally a favorite among younger demographics, they're now largely the province of older men.

Penny loafers and suede moccasins, however, are the only "dress" shoes that can successfully be worn with shorts and a polo shirt.

Lastly, here are some tips for buying, wearing, and caring for 2009 dress shoes:-
  • Protect your dressier shoes from rain/mud/snow by wearing overshoes (rubber protectors).
  • Invest in shoe trees.
  • Black shoes go with black, gray and navy clothes.
  • Brown shoes go with earth tones.
  • Burgundy (oxblood) shoes go with just about all men's colors.



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